Mentawais

The land of plenty. The land of the lefts. In the context of surfing, Indonesia goes by many names. From, From Timor to Aceh, the Indonesian archipelago is blessed with some of the best reef formations on the planet. However, there’s one region off the main island of Sumatra considered the ultimate pilgrimage for most traveling surfers.

Hidden from the world until the 90s, the Mentawai Islands have transformed how we explore and experience surf travel. Picture a string of about 70 islands, each blessed with pristine waves, spread over 100 miles of open ocean, reef passages, and land formations.

There are around 60 known breaks - more if you know where to look, or get in with the right crew, the Ments has waves of every size, every shape, every direction and for every kind of surfer under the sun. Each visit reveals unique nuances in every wave, and the three main surfing areas each have their own distinct charm.

Venture to the North Islands, perched on the southern edge of Siberut, an area affectionately known as Playgrounds, and you’ll have access to around 25 spots, all within a short boat ride from each other. It's worth noting that this region tends to be the most crowded, thanks to the numerous surf camps and easier accessibility from Padang via public ferries, but the sheer perfection of its waves makes the added traffic in the lineup well worth your while.

Now, if you're up for a little more exploration, venture further south and prepare to have your mind blown. Sipora, the main island that forms the base of the Central Mentawai Islands, proudly hosts legendary waves such as Lance's Left and HT.

In this quieter part of the archipelago, you'll discover a more laid-back atmosphere compared to the busier lineups up north. Yet, rest assured, the world-class quality of the waves remains unchanged.

As you continue your journey through the Ments, you’ll soon encounter the region's last surfing frontier. The area around Pagai - the southern most island in the chain - offers excellent exposure to SW swells, and its direction handles winds from the north like a treat.

Undoubtedly, your quest will lead you to Macas, a wave of mythical allure that limits access to a select few surfers. Touted as the funnest wave on the planet, Macas embodies the holy grail of Indonesian surf culture. With only a handful of land-based options, charters reign supreme in this remote corner of the world.

When to go

Let’s get one thing straight, the Ments have waves all year around. Due to the island chain’s position in one of the most active ocean’s on the planet, there isn’t a bad time to go. However, there’s a right time to go, depending on what you’re after (and skill level). During the off-season, from December to February, the region is blissfully uncrowded, with picture-perfect weather and more small, flawless waves than you could ride in a lifetime.

The shoulder season, spanning March, April, October, and November, offers a good mix of swells - from solid bombs to rippable ramps. These months provide a great balance between fun and thrill, making it the ideal time for intermediate and advanced punters to strike.

But if you're chasing the pit of your dreams, the peak season from May to September is where the magic happens. This is when the region well and truly fires on all cylinders - swells for days, perfectly groomed barrels and the kind of waves you’ll only get to see in surf mags wherever you look.

Surf Areas

Siberut Island

There isn’t a single place on this earth that rivals Playgrounds for quality. Proof us wrong. We’ll wait…

Situated at the northernmost point of the island chain, Playgrounds opens the gates to about 20 worldclass waves all within an easy 30 minute boatride from each other. With that amount of choice, crowds are a factor, especially if you head to the local standouts such as Rifles or Kandui. But the sheer abundance of breaks ensures ample opportunity to score away from the masses. Lesser-known spots like Hideaways, Pistols, and Dog's Reef might not be as familiar, but they hold the potential to deliver the session of a lifetime. While the Ments are renowned for waves so hollow you could park a freight train in, waves like Beng Bengs, Burger World or Good Times, provide the perfect canvas for intermediates to thrive too.

North Sipora

North Sipora is home to Telescopes, on of the best lefthanders in all over Indonesia, heck, probably the world. The long, barreling lefthander is undoubtedly the main attraction of the area, but make no mistake, North Sipora is packed with waves - lefts, rights, a-frames, catering to all sorts of crafts, skills and needs. Way less busy than Playgrounds to the north and HT’S to the south, North Sipora blends a great selection of waves with an awesome mellow vibe.

South Sipora

South Sipora put the Mentawai islands on the map in the 90s, largely thanks to the legendary righthander HT’S also known as Lances Right. Surfers from all over the world flock to the picturesque bay to get a piece of the fast, barreling righthander. Many have been denied, but a set wave at HT’S can quickly turn into the best session you’ll ever have in your life.

Just around the corner remains the island’s best kept secret. Lances Left is more rippable and high performance than its hollower, more potent sibling, but trading some perfection for additional turns, making it an excellent alternative when the wind turns onshore at HT's or if you’re in need of catching a break from heavy, hollow pits.

Pagai

Tucked away at the southern end of the Mentawai chain lies a wave rich surf sanctuary blessed with more world class breaks than you could wish for. Macaroni’s, the funnest wave in the world, is the region’s crown jewel for good reason. With just the right mix of barrels, consistency and high performance sections, Macas is the ultimate addition to any surfer’s bucket list. If Macas is the region’s funnest wave, then Greenbush is Pagai’s heaviest. A powerful lefthander that’s strictly reserved for serious punters and people comfortable in hollow, heavy barrels.

Venture further south to discover more low key options like Rags Left and Rags Right, the ultra-fun Roxies, the flawless Bat Cave, and the ever reliable Thunders. All in all, this relatively undiscovered slice of Sumatra oozes that enchanting Mentawai magic, offering more than enough moments of pure, unadulterated joy.

The Waves

Siberut Island

• Promises – Out on the distant reefs beyond the outer island of Ngiau, you'll find Promises, a spot that's as elusive as it is challenging. This wicked-fast righthand barrel is strictly for the pros, and it finishes on a shallow, unforgving reef. Chances are, you'll have this extremely challenging spot all to yourself, but be warned: there's no room for error out here!
• Burgerworld – Burgerworld is one heck of a swell magnet and has a knack for catching all that delicious S-SW Indian Ocean swellbefore churning it onto the shallow reefs of Palau Dodiki. The result? Perfectly sculpted righthand tubes all year around. When the swell kicks it up a notch, things can get pretty heavy, so don’t let the dreamy backdrop of palm-fringed headlands tell you otherwise. It’s a fun wave, but be aware of rouge sets and power.
• Bank Vaults – Bank Vaults is as perfect of a barrel as it gets. But make no mistake, it’s only for advanced surfers, so don’t let good looks deceive you. Bank Vaults features a heavy drop straight into a lightning fast barrel that ends over a shallow reef - especially on a lower tide.
• Nipussi – A mellower cousin of Bank Vaults, Nipussi consistent welcomes intermediate surfers with open arms, offering up inviting right-hand tubes and rippable shoulders that beg for some playful shredding. Keep an eye out for rips and shallow reefs, but other than that, it’s all fun and games.
• Pit Stops – Pit Stops is a fun, and easy-ish right-hand barrel that peels over a shallow reef, all set against the backdrop of a stunning beach. Easy to access and brimming with fun, Pit Stops offers multiple sections - some are hollow, some are rippable, perfect for intermediates looking to progress in heavier waves, and advanced shredders wanting to tone it down a notch.
• E-Bay – The prettiest lefthander in the world! Touted as one of the most consistent waves in the Ments, E Bay offers a towering barrel section where you can comfortably stand tall before it unfolds into a massive wall of water. With enough juice for airs, top turns, cutbacks, and any other maneuveur you can think of, it's no wonder E-bay has earned legendary status among traveling surfers.
• Beng Bengs – Beng Bengs hardly resembles your typical heavy Indo reef break. With a mellower and crumblier vibe, it's a heap of fun as it breaks left across a deep coral section and into the paddle channel. Even when it’s big and powerful, it’s still playful and forgiving, transforming into gentle faces offering an ideal playground to hone your bottom turns, cutties and top turns.. Suitable for surfers of all skill levels, it's a crowd-pleasing option among the heavy reefs around.
• Hideaways – Hideaways enjoys the gift of offshore S-SE winds, a rare treat in the Ments, where N-NE winds are the norm. This lefthander can be hard to read, as it goes through moods and tides. The chameleon-like Hideaways can morph from a hollow tube on some days, to a soft, cruisy shoulder perfect for logs and beginners. When it’s firing, remember the take off is quick and zippy with multiple sections, so watch out for traffic.
• Kandui – Kandui. A name that has made it into every surf mag across the globe. The reason is simple. Barrels. Heavy, square barrels from start to finish. This lightning fast lefthander barrels over the reef of the southernmost Plaground islands, providing a challenge to the ones who dare. The wave is difficult - the approach simple; dig deep, paddle as hard as you can, and drive your front foot through seemingly endless barrels until you burst out the other side. Only for the hardest chargers, so bring your a-game and a few backup boards - you’ll need them!
• A-Frames – Living up to its name, this gem of a break is a rare A-frame in the northern Ments, nestled on Karangmajat Island. The waves form on the outer reefs, boasting a crumbly lip that peels off in both directions over relatively deep reef. Its versatility draws a crowd, but the vibe is pretty mellow and the wave is a hoot!
• Four Bobs – Four Bobs is an intermediate safe haven among the heavy hitters in the area. The mellow reefbreak that rolls into a channel resembles more of a beachbreak than anything else, even on XL swells. This comes in handy if you’re game for some easy pits or just want to have a fun surf sans the usual hazards.
• Rifles – Wrapping around the south side of Karangmajat Island, Rifles is a dream come true for regular-footed barrel hunters. On occasion, you'll find the different sections align in a way that shapes a picture perfect tube stretching over 400 meters, while more often than not, the reef carves the wave into separate sections, delivering punchy pits and power-packed shoulders. Tailored for intermediate and up surfers, Rifles is widely regarded as one of the finest waves in the Playgrounds region.

Sipura

• Pulau Silabok – Pulau Silabok, a small slice of land nestled just off the northern tip of Sipura, boasts barefoot luxury kinda vibes. The breaks here primarily cater to guests of the expansive hotel resort that stretches along the east and west shores. If you're a guest, you can anticipate sheltered reefs that dial down the speedy, barreling action typical of the Ments, all the while maintaining the same striking consistency.
• Iceland – The closest thing to a big wave spot in the Ments. To put it kindly, Iceland is f’ed up! It picks up so much swell, making it the premier spot when things go flat elsewhere. On smaller days, Iceland is a fun, rippable wave with an easy tube. However, when the swell kicks it up a notch, Iceland turns into a monster exhibiting barrels that put the North Shore to shame. The tubes are huge. The take-offs as challenging as they come. Expert territory only!
• Ombak Tidur – Ombak Tidur, affectionately known as Sleepers among locals, is a top-notch reef break that hugs the shoreline south of Iceland on Pulau Pototoga. This picturesque, sectiony reefbreak alternates between steep and hollow sections and open-faced walls. On its days, the sections cooperate, but probably not. Sleepers makes for a great wave for intermediates and up. It’s fun and rippable but shoulder burns and heavy rips are unavoidable.
• Backyards / Ariks – Rounding out the breaks on the petite Pulau Pototoga, Ariks delivers a lengthy, cruisy barrel when blessed with offshore winds from the north. Backyards is long, fun, and a great wave for intermediates to get acquainted with Mentawai life.
• Suicides – As the name suggests, this heavy righthander is serious business. Suicides is a super shallow, flawless righthand barrel just off Awera Island. Virtually unsurfable on low tide, when it’s on, Suicides turns into a barrel feast. Fast, hollow and powerful, Suicides can be the ride or workout of your life, depending on how you handle it.
• Telescopes – One of the most iconic waves in the Mentawai Islands, Telescopes is a rippable, long and ultra fun lefthander that churns out barrel after barrel on the right tide. Always busy, Telescopes is why people travel to the Ments for. Telescopes breaks on all tides, except dead low and loves a decent west swell. When it’s pumping, you’ll take off straight into the biggest, widest barrel you’ve ever seen, with multiple sections for turns and maneuvers, before offering one more solid barrel to end things on a high note.
• Scarecrows – If Telescopes is too busy / too heavy, then there’s a similarly epic lefthander that might just do the trick. Scarecrows is ultra consistent and always seems to have a wave, even on the miniature days. Not a crowded and competitive as Telescopes, but on a decent S-SW equally as world class. Scarecrows features a pretty mellow take-off, followed by a rippable first section, before bowling up through the inside for plenty of great views from the green room. The wave ends in a channel, which makes less of a shoulder burn than other spots around. Only downside; Scarecrows is only accessible by boat.
• 7 Palms – 7 Palms is one of those spots that often get overlooked, forgotten or ignored as surfers (and operators) have the tendency to brush the and hollow lefthander on their way to Lances Left and HTs. It isn’t a secret spot by any means, but it tends to attract fewer punters than other spots, so it’s worth a look. The reward? A consistent and rippable lefthander with a mighty fine barrel section.
• Bintangs – Just like it’s alcoholic namesake, this spot is addictive! A great option on a west swell or north winds, Bintangs is a slabby righthander with a pretty epic barrel as soon as you take off. The wave offers a few sections - some as hollow as they get, others made for maneuvers and performance. Always less crowded than some of the more famous waves in the area. Good fun on a smaller swell that can turn thick and feisty on bigger days.
• Cobra – Cobra is a somewhat tricky wave with a few occupational hazards to navigate. For starters, it’s incredibly fickle, and if the name is any indication, the wave has some bite to it. It’s a fast, and thick wave with a tricky take-off. Be patient and choose your waves wisely out there. The wrong wave often leads to a heavy beating. The right wave, however, can churn out the barrel of your life.
• Lances Left – A go-to spot on a medium south west swell, offering some of the most consistent lefthand barrels in the Ments. Lances Left needs no introduction. It’s a world class wave with various take off spots that spreads out the crowd. Lances Left transforms into a wavepark at head high, producing long, rippable walls made for turns and performance surfing, followed by two beautiful barrel sections. Lances Left handles size very well too. At 6ft+, the wave gets steeper, heavier and more powerful, but big open faces and makeable pits provide the perfect canvas for surfers to travel half way around the world to get a piece of it.
• HT’s / Lances Right – On its days, Lances Right can easily be the main attraction in the Ments. The wave wraps around the reef at a 180 degree angle, ultimately breaking south as it bends and intensifies around Sipora’s southern tip. The wave is fast, powerful and ultra hollow. On smaller days the wave tends - although not a great deal - to mellow out and you are greeted with a few additional take off spots that are fairly easy in comparison to the main drop-to-barrel scenario. It goes without saying, HT’s gets super shallow, especially through the inside and a section called surgeon’s table. If you aren’t comfortable in the barrel, don’t surf it. If you are fine in the barrel, surf it on the high tide. If you know your way around heavy, hollow pits, low tide is your time to shine!
  HT’s is a wave that really tests your limits, having the ability to push you to ride bigger boards than you would normally take out. The long walls and powerful barrels can be intimidating, however, that being said; you take off on a bomb, catch some shade, and come out the other end, it’s the best wave you’ll ever going to get in your life. And that’s a promise!

Pagai

• Bat Cave – A perfectly paced pont break style righthander that wraps around a small island that’s often touted to be the swell magnet in the area. It’s a super long wave with multiple sections. Some are playful and mellow, others are perfect for speed hacks and maneuvers, with an occasional tube section at the end. It’s well worth the trip if you want to escape the crowds for a bit or just soak in the spectacular scenery that surrounds the the fun little gem.
• Macaronis – 5 words. Funnest wave in the world! If you are thinking of going to the Ments, Macas is often one of the main reasons why you’d eventually pull the trigger. The take-off to barrel section is just perfect. Not too heavy, not too fast, just the right amount of power… We could go on, but by know, you get the idea; It’s a a worldclass wave! The inside section screams skatepark. It’s perfectly paced, with just the right amount of slant for endless cutties, tail slides, re-entires, airs or whatever else your trick arsenal includes. Up to 4ft, the wave is pretty forgiving, which makes it ideal for intermediates and above. However, don’t let the perfect shape of the wave fool you. In the head to double overhead range, Macas is for serious punters only.
• Greenbush – If you are less of a fun type, then Greenbush is your domain. It’s a worldclass barrel. Only downside, it’s unforgiving, heavy and extremely difficult. Only for experts, unless you find the sound of getting stuck on razor sharp, coral infested reef while thick lipped mountains of waters keep crashing down on you, appealing. Despite all the hazards, Greenbush is the real deal, creating wide O-shaped barrels made for you to stand tall in.
• Roxies – Roxies seems to hit the mark for many people. It’s a fun, pretty consistent, and offers a few sections for different needs & wants. Roxies doesn’t offer the same quality as Macaronis, but it comes pretty darn close. On smaller days, it’s a performance machine offering endless walls for maneuvers. However, Roxies loves a little push in the swell, offering beautiful barrels which rival any wave in the Ments.
• Rag’s Left – Rags Left is a fickle beast that heavily barrels on large south-west swells. Just to make things clear. It’s a heavy wave, and you want to bring your bigger board to huck under the thick lip of this fast and challenging top to bottom barrel. The end section offers a mellower wall for some down the line shenanigans. Watch the closeout sets!
• Rag’s Right – Just like its left counterpart, Rags Right is heavy, fickle and hollow. Only surfable on a higher tide, Rags Right is a zippy righthander producing some of the most perfect barrels in the area. Bring your bigger boards AND full commitment! This wave is for experts only, as it peels along the shallow reef, before shutting down fast and hard.
• Thunders – Two words. Ultra reliable! It picks up swell from pretty much any direction and can be surfed on all tides. There is always a crew on it, but the various take-off spots make it feel mellow and uncrowded. A go to spot when it’s small or on a low tide as the wave seems to break further out the back.